Kenya, and on a clear day you can see snow on its peak. When it rains, I smell the earth, tangy, acrid and smoky, and if I stand downwind I can smell the rain coming.

It is a hotel where you wake to the clink of thick crockery rattling on the trays carrying early morning tea, with the sugar in bowls and not in sealed paper packets, and a jug of hot water comes with a pot of strong tea.